At the edge of Europe

At the Edge of Europe

Dr Bob Jarvis, Department of Art History, University of Sussex, UK

Abstract

The influence of ‘travel’ on an almost landlocked country which has been part of several empires and only established ‘national’ boundaries in the 19th Century : Romania.

Keywords

Romania. Evolution and Identity. Discovery

Introduction

This note originates from an exploration of ‘Art and Travel’-  a term paper in Art History at Sussex University. The module was set in the context of an island with clear boundaries and an expansive, Imperial world view. My essay turned this conceptual background on its head and discussed the influence of ‘travel’ on an almost landlocked country which has been part of several empires and only established ‘national’ boundaries in the 19th Century : Romania.

Discussion

Byron’s remark on Albania “though within sight of Italy, is less known than the interior of America” [1] applies as much today, about Romania and Romanian art and served to prompt this essay. Although Romania has a Latin-based language, and since emergence of nationalism in the mid-19th century has been a ‘European’ country it is relatively little known or studied.

Though ‘Romania’ has only existed politically since the mid-19th

century a ‘Romanian Consciousness’ can be traced back (and argued for as a continuous cultural tradition) for two millennia, and its cultural and artistic development is permeated with the travelling and transportation of artistic ideas and artefacts.

The political geography of Romania is complex and by no means a stable continuum and this too has shaped the travel geography of art. Finally there is an overlay of the two substantial and influential cultural and racial minorities in Romania – Jewish-a substantial influence on DADA,  Rroma ( this is the currently preferred spelling rather than ‘roma’ ) – which have their own boundaries and patterns of travel and influence

Ulysse de Marsillac’s casual remark “I asked my fellow-traveller, What distance is between Paris and Bucharest? Three centuries, sir! was his answer,”[2] unkindly emphasises the cultural differences – and similarities- between Romania and Western Europe. Romania has been described as a ‘Latin island in a Slavic sea’, its capital city, Bucharest lying somewhere between orient and occident[3] – which is visible today where you can pick up a regular service bus to Istanbul and the architecture is an eclectic mix of styles and sources. As western influences grew it came to be called the “Paris of the East” as architects and artists from Paris were given commissions and Romanian architects and artists studied there.

Yet despite the western influences and material culture Romania preserved an Orthodox Christianity (of its own) through 400 hundred years as a part of the Ottoman Empire and 40 years of Communism.

Conclusion

The decision I made to focus my work on the art history of a little researched country at the other edge of Europe seemed at first but it was a case of topophilia – I was in love with the place even before the bus from the airport reached the center of Bucharest one rainy November  night on my first visit.[4]

The full set of term papers and dissertation which give these studies in full can be found at

https://bobopedia.wordpress.com/


[1] Quoted in Belcher, Rosemary, Lord Byron’s Grander Tour in Chard, Rosemary and Langdon, Helen Transports:Travel, Pleassure and Imaginative Geography, 1600-1830 Yale UP, Studies in British Art 3, New Haven and London, 1996, p50 and Gephardt Katarina The Idea of Europe in British Travel Narratives, 1789-1914 Routledge, 2016

[2] Ulysse de Marsillac was one of several French commentators on (and enthusiasts for) the newly forming Romania in the mid-19th Century and this off-hand dismissal is misleading. For detailed discussion of De Marsillac see Iulian and Laura Oncescu The image of Romanian Society in France (1859- 1878) in Stanciur, Ion, Miloiu, Silviu and Onescu Iullain (eds) Europe as viewed fron the Margins – an East- Central European Perspective from World War 1 to the Cold War Editura Cetatea de Scaun, Targoviste 2007 ( extracts available on Google Books)

[3] This theme has been explored by many writers notably Adrian Majuru Bucharest: Between European

modernity and The Ottoman East Fundatia Culturala Echinox 2003, Vol5, pp92-103 and Harhoiu, Dana

Bucureşti, un oraş între orient şi occident/ Bucharest, a city between orient and occident

Simetria Bucharest 2005

[4] Jarvis,B (2010)  For the first time once International Studies,RTPI Research Conference, UK

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Romanian art term papers (2017-17)

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Romanian Art Compilation 2016-8

I have just completed an MA in Art History at Sussex and took a central but risky decision to write all my term papers and projects on Romanian art. I have put all these together in a single ‘collection’ which, if you would like a copy, I would be happy to send you.

Please email me at rkj100@yahoo.com and I will reply.

BOB

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

a 200 word biography

BOB JARVIS BA(1st Class) MA(Distinction) MPhil PhD
MRTPI(retired), IHBC(retired)

In just over 200 words
Bob Jarvis was educated as one of the last of the gentlemen planners at Newcastle University, but later took classes in poetry and contemporary dance.
He is probably the only qualified planner to have an MA in Creative Writing.
He worked at Milton Keynes before “Milton Keynes” existed, then undertook a two year research programme of zen-like isolation in urban design before urban design was re-invented, joined Tyne and Wear County Council when there was such a place to work on the environmental design. He was Gateshead’s first conservation officer which he wrote up as Talking About Special Places for his doctoral research, while his pioneering work for the National Garden Festival bid was re-written as epic poem The Dunston Manuscript.
From 1987 he led urban design teaching in the planning courses at South Bank University. There he ran a series of successful project based programmes in London, collaborative projects in Europe and several “live” projects. His research and writing has focussed on town planning as an art and urban design as choreography. In this work he developed the argument that urban design is the core of town planning and that its ‘real subject’ is everyday life.
In 2011 he won a British Academy Small Grants award to study contemporary Romanian art. He is now studying art history at Sussex University where he has completed an MA which was exclusively focussed on Romanian art. He is starting on further research into Art in Post Communist Romania –the influence of social and environmental contexts.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

in the midnight hour in bucuresti

Midnight in Bucharest/ Miezul nopti la Bucuresti
(This is three songs, three pastiches, that like the countdown in In the Midnight Hour get closer to that zero hour.
Acest este trei canturi, trei parodii care numaratoara in In ora meizul nopti vin aproape acest ora nul.)

Asa…….mergeti!
So………lets go!
One….two…three….four….five ….six…..
Unu…doi….trei…….patru…cicnci…sase…
(intaiul, citatul, cantecul…… first the edit, the songline….)

1 Take it easy /Ia-usor
Ei bine, eu sunt o in picioare pe un colt ….ia-o usor…
Well, I’m standing on the corner…..take it easy,

But the heat is right and the moment’s good,
Rahovei / Progresul ain’t Winslow, Arizona
and I may never be this way again.
We find a place to sit and talk
And she smiles and takes a look at me
and says that she’s a friend of mine
I don’t try to understand
Oh we gotta take it easy,
We ought to take it easy ….
Dar caldura este bine, si momentul prea
Rahovei /Progresul nu este Winslow Arizona
Nu voi fi din nou aici,
Gasim un loc a aseza si a conversa
Zambesti, si privesti imi si vorbesti este o prietina al meu….
Nu inccerati macar inteleaga…
Oh am luat-o usor,
Noi trebium sa usor/usorel!
*
2 True to Life / Veridic
And now it gets to …..seven(….eight ….nine)
Deci, se ajunge la şapte(…opt…….noua)
An old song hums in the evening air /
Un cantec vechi zumzia in aer amurgul
True to life/ veredic /True to life/ veredic

So I turn the pages /And tell the story
Asa ca am rândul său, paginile/Şi spun povestea
True to life/ verdic/ True to life/veredic

Past the fountain / Dincolo fantana
Trees and darkness / copaci si intuneric
Lights on the lake / lumini pe lacul
Lovers’ row boats / barci cu vasle iubitilor
Ice-cream with sparklers / inghe tata cu scantier
At another’s party / la serata altululi
Or a table for one and then the bill/O masa pentru unu si atunci nota

In search of nothing/But the sky at night
În căutare de nimic/Dar cerul pe timp de noapte
True to life/ veredic/ True to life/ veredic

Apartment blocks hide in scaffolding / blocuri ascund sub schelerie
Sleeping offices with the cars in rows/ birouri dorm cu masini in siruri
Midnight workers / muncitori miezulelor noapte
But the playground’s full /dar terenul jocului este plin
The young embracing /copiii imbratisa
Old men talking / Vechituri vorbesc
Dancing city / oras dansand
Others steps / pasi altilor

Times have changed/Ori s-au schimbat
Too much luck/Means too much trouble
Mai mult naroc /Insemne mai mult incaratura
Much time alone/Mult timp Numai
I´ll soon be home/Voi fi curand la casa
True to life/ veredic/ True to life/ veredic
**
3 In the midnight hour /in mezul naoptii
Ten…..eleven…..twelve /zeci…..unsprezechi……duasprezechi
Ohhhh. Ah . Oooh ah ….yeah/hae…ooooo…..da!
Work it now …work it …/lucreste-el, acum, lucreste
That’s right / yeah /acesta bun/ da

(I’m gonna wait/voi astepa…)
Up Milo, across Victoiriei / Sus St M. Milo, peste Cal. Victoriei
Into the arcade.past the bar and down the steps/In pasajul,peste barul, coboresc scara
Yeah/da
(till the midnight hour/pana la orul mezul noaptii)
In the basement, at midnight / la subsol, la mezul noaptii
The art’s all finished, now its fun/ Arte tot terminat, acum este joc
(and do all the things I told you , in the midnight hour)
(si de la face toate lucrile pe care ti-am spus/ in mezul naoptii)
Crank up the volume! Supramanivelate volumul!
Faster! Louder! / Mai luiti! Mai zgomotos!
Hi!/Buna!
(two…. Four…jump….turn / doi….pentru …sora! ….invorta!)
I saw you / te am vedut
Left …two …turn / la stranga….doi…invarta)
At the seminar/ la seminar
Yeah? So? /Ce? Astafel/
Two…. Two… five…left/dio …doi ….cinci….la stranga
Back…. Together….. And / inapoi….impreuna….si
Huh/huh
So, yeah / Ce/ Astafel?
Fuck art…lets dance / dracu sa te, arte ….lasam sa dansam
(Ooh yeah/ in the midnight hour / oooh da ….la ora mezul noapte)

***
BOB JARVIS, 2010

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

autobiography ?

Everytime I start this it comes out a line of song quotes : so lets start that way (no prizes for looking up the answers on Google) ‘two degrees in bebop/a PhD in swing/..’ used to write and perform and paint and struggle with ‘academic’ criteria in my past life as a lecturer and gradually shrivelled up, lost my mojo, had breakdowns, serious hospital cases and now coming out the other side trying to escape the prison of domestic life. ‘Its always showtime/here at the edge of the stage’ …..educated as one of the last of the gentlemen planners Bryan Ferry used to play at student parties ‘A crowded street/An empty train / You cry in vain /A fool for love / ‘ but later took classes in poetry and contemporary dance .‘And I’ve been around the block /But I don’t care I’m on a roll – /I’m on a wild ride /Cause the moon is full and look out baby – /I’m at high tide.’ then research of zen-like isolation in urban design before urban design was re-invented. research more a bildungsroman in the forbidden first person than an academic piece and history of a major project and heartbreak as was written as an epic performance poem then an MA in Creative writing and so ‘looking for a girl who has no face /She has no name, or number/And so I search within his lonely place/I feel no sound/Don’t know where I’m bound’

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

A fragment between countries

He was aware that his city was a polyglot mixture of voices and nationalities, so as he sat outside the cafe on the street tables with his cappuccino alongside the Middle Easter men with their Turkish cigarettes and gruff voices, with a background hum of traffic and conversation it came as no surprise to here fragments of European voices. At times Slavic, at times Italian, at times Magyar. Then he picked out sounds that were more familiar – the slurred ‘s’, groups of vowels ‘with no equivalent in English……..words that he half recognised ‘noapte’ and gradually he wondered who he was hearing behind him…..could it be? He slipped into dreams and fantasies. Then as he stood up to he realised they were just projections from his dreams. “Are you Romanian” he asked, “You hear it so rarely here and it is so evocative for me” He dared not say how his heart was already on the other side of Europe.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

townscape revisited – a forgotten paper

Townscape Revisited
Townscape Revisited
________________________________________
Bob Jarvis
Bob Jarvis re-reads ‘Townscape’ as a book and explores the devices of word and image and its language and construction. Townscape begins with a casebook in which ‘serial vision’, shown below, are the rewards of the moving eye, but an eye which is open and not lazy’.
Bob Jarvis is a Senior Lecturer in Planning at South Bank University

There are only three urban design tests still in print after thirty three years. Jane Jacobs’ Death and Life of Great American Cities[1] and Kevin Lynch’s Image of the City[2] are two; the third, and the one I want to “re-read” here is Gordon Cullen’s Townscape[3] now truncated and published on plan paper in soft wrappers as The Concise Townscape[4].
The other contributors to this tribute have written about Gordon Cullen’s professional, practical and theoretical importance to urban design. My task is rather different. I want to examine why a book I bought as a first year student (admittedly although perhaps significantly) alongside Tom Wolfe’s Kandy-Kolored Tangerine-Flake Streamline Baby[5] and a primer on optical illusions in the visual[6] is still in demand when the others on those yellowed reading lists have either disappeared (Chapin, Keeble, Abercrombie) or are now collectors items (Thomas Sharp’s The English Village, Design in Town and Village).
I want to examine Townscape above all as a book, as a piece of literature, and briefly explore the devices of word and image, the language and construction of the work itself.
This approach is quite different from the way Cullen’s work is usually placed in the context of urban design. Two substantial reviews of the subject emphasise Cullen’s other work – either his practice and the reports associated with it[7] or the ephemera (un-catalogued, unpriced and unobtainable) published by Alcan in the mid 1960s.[8] This is understandable: David Gosling is a long time collaborator with Cullen as his piece here and his forthcoming edition of Cullen’s work records; Broadbent’s wider concern is to establish a theoretical perspective that is essentially picturesque and pluralist: so it’s hardly surprising Broadbent concludes “that in comparison the Rationalists look more rigorous” rather than to point to the profundity of Cullen’s Message.[9]
Literature References
But whatever the theoretical strengths of The Scanner et al and the practical demonstrations of A Town Called Alcan and Maryculter (The Concise) Townscape is all that most readers will ever have seen. What did its 9 pages of introduction, 185 pages of glossy photographs case studies, and (deleted from the Concise Townscape … ) 117 pages of Town Studies and proposals, offer for the 56s. (£2.16s.od) I paid?
The Major difference between Townscape and everything that came before it is the authorial tone. Townscape is written from the heart, not the lectern. Though Sitte[10] and Unwin[11] had allowed glimpses of their personality and instinct – Sitte perhaps in his opening chapter, Unwin where in ‘Of the City Survey’ he writes of the designer walking the ground to be planned,[12] Giedion[13] no sooner offers glimpses of an irrational creative spirit than it is absorbed into a broader cultural Zietgiest that sweeps along everyone from Michelangelo to Jorn Utzon. The rest – even Thomas Sharp – are sets of lectures, instructions on what parts aspiring planners and designers should shape and place to create desired effects in villages, residential areas, towns and city centres.[14] Only Thomas Sharp’s The Anatomy of the Village, popularly rather than professionally published, written as a part of the Penguin populist wave of rebuilding Britain after the war communicates a sense of love of place.[15]
By contrast, all three of those books from that annus mirabilis, 1961, are centred in the individual, personal response, Kevin Lynch turns it into an area of scientific inquiry, Jane Jacobs stands as the street corner social observer. In Townscape we see the world though Cullen’s eyes (mainly, it underplays the other senses). Only after those exercises for the senses, after those critical reflections and sketches are there any proposals.
Maybe it wasn’t entirely chance that I bought it alongside Kandy-Kolored… like Wolfe, Cullen’s work had matured out of journalism, albeit the Architectural Reviews, rather than the New York Herald Tribune. Townscape in this analysis, stands like Wolfe’s New Journalism [16] against the diversion of ‘objective’ modernism and reasserts the reporting of experience.

Proposals for Westminster

and for Pimlico Gardens
Town Studies for Evesham

and for Shrewsbury.
Method and Approach
Townscape is an important book not because of its content, still less because of its influence (which Cullen himself dismissed in the Introduction to the 1971 Edition) but precisely because of its method and its approach. Broadbent emphasises the overt rational charting of The Scanner and Notation.[17]
The structure of Townscape is suppressed. There are no obvious divisions: there are no chapter numbers, the headings to the parts are identified only by capital headings in slightly larger typeface within the flow of short paragraphs well spaced alongside photographs and drawings. The articulation of the parts on the title page is hard to discern in the book itself. The reader’s attention is caught now by a photograph, now by a comment, now by a cartoon.
The text itself is fragmented. Outside the Introduction there is never more than a page without subdivision or heading. Most of it is alongside or sometimes written into illustrations. The content and language vary from theoretical and imperative categorization (at random ‘The essential function of a town should be visible from a single glance at the plan’ p.111) through sequential and analytical description to poetic reverie and reflection. Abstract nouns are given precise concrete expression in experience of space though time, analogy, metaphor and neologism are all used in the heading captions.
Through this the author is always with the reader (‘… arouse one’s curiosity as to what scene will meet our eyes upon reaching…’ p. 49), but there are paradoxically few authoritative instructions or examples. Now that The Concise… has deleted Proposals as well as Town Studies this is even more the case: we are left walking down the Via dei Servi towards the Duomo early one morning with just three and a half pages of the Endpiece’s polemic to go.[18]

Post Modern
It is precisely this transparency and yet withdrawal that makes Townscape not a reactionary book but a truly post-modem one; so called architectural post-modems are still writing as author-dictacts, strutting and instructing, pointing to their projects, their rules, in just the same manner as Palladio or Pugin. Townscape has survived because it is an open work.[19] The leader not only has to make the work with the author but there is no fixed order or combination of the parts and devices. Doubly so, as there is no single order in which the places created might themselves be experienced.
The closest parallel to Townscape lies not in the literature of urban design (though de Wolfe’s Italian Townscape reinstated it [20]) but in literacy theory. Not only does Roland Barthes The Pleasure of the Text use a similar fragmented sequence but Barthes, like Cullen before him, champions the senses. ‘(Pleasure)… does not depend on a logic of understanding… it is something both revolutionary and asocial, and it cannot be taken over by any collectivity, any mentality, any intellect [21] Enjoyment is too readily by ‘the political policeman and the psychoanalytical policeman’.[22] Barthes’ texts, like Cullen’s towns and spaces are to be savoured, as sequences, rhythms, fluctuations of attention. There is no single prescription.
Maybe we have been wrong, deceived by the publisher’s imprint and the author’s professional practice to read Townscape as a handbook for designers. Perhaps it too is a blueprint for topographical bliss, an English picturesque variant of the line than runs from Baudelaire through Andr? Breton and Louis Aragon’s surrealist promenades to the psychogeography of the Situationiste derive.[23]
Conclusions
“Classics” easily become tokens, books to be cited but not quoted, let alone read or even used. Townscape repays rereading, closer and more careful attention. It has survived over thirty years in print perhaps as much for its authorial tone and its use of language and illustration as for its message – which has been summarised, disputed and re-written often enough. Re-reading it after the critical and theoretical revolutions of recent years, it emerges enhanced rather than diminished.
The essential reason for this is that Townscape, unlike so many urban design texts is not written with the arrogance of the author/architect, it is written from the heart of experience, to engage not subdue the reader who like Barthes, cruises its pages/spaces. The Italian edition is titled I passaggietti urbani.

Proposals to relieve Oxford by building a new road across the Cherwell and south of Broad Walk.
References:
1. Jacobs, J, The Death and Life of Great American Cities, first published Random House, New York, 1961.
2. Lynch, K, The Image of the City, first published MIT Press, Cambridge, Mass., 1961.
3. Cullen, G, Townscape, first published, Architectural Press, London, 1961.
4. Cullen, G, The Concise Townscape, originally Architectural Press, London 1971.
5. Wolfe, T, The Kandy-Kolored Tangerine-Flake Streamline Baby, Jonathan Cape, London 1966.
6. Carraher, R G and Thurston, J B, Optical Illusions and The Visual Arts, Reinhold/ Studio Vista New York/London; 1966. Townscape is an art of three dimensional optical illusions.
7. Gosling D and Maitland B, Concepts of Urban Design, Academy Editions, London, 1984, pp. 48-5 1.
8. Broadbent, G, Emerging Concepts in Urban Space Design, Van Nostrand Reinhold (International), London and New York, 1990 pp. 217-225.
9. Broadbent, G op. cit. p. 219.
10. Sitte, C, “City Planning According to Artistic Principles”, in Collins, G R and Collins, C C, Camillo Sitte; The Birth of Modern City Planning Rizzoli, New York, 1986.
11. Unwin, R, Town Planning in Practice reprinted in facsimile, Benjamin Blom, New York, 1971.
12. Unwin, R, op. cit. p. 149-50.
13. Giedion, S, Space Time and Architecture Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Mass/OUP, London, 1967.
14. See for instance: Ministry of Housing and Local Government, Design in Town and Village, HMSO, London, 1953 and Gilberd, F, Town Design, Architectural Press, 1953.
15. Sharp, T, The Anatomy of the Village, Penguin Books, Harmondsworth, 1946.
16. Wolfe, T, The New Journalism, Picador/Pan, London, 1975.
17. Cullen, G, Notation and The Scanner Alcan Industries, Banbury, 1966, 1968.
18. Cullen, G, op. cit., 1971, pp. 193-196.
19. Eco, U, ‘The Poetics of the Open Work’ in The Role of the Reader Hutchinson, London, 1981, pp. 47-67.
20. de Wolfe, I, The Italian Townscape, Architectural Press, London, 1963.
21. Barthes, R, The Pleasure of the Text, Hill and Wang, New York, 1975, p. 22.
22. Ibid, p. 57.
23. See Berman, M, All that is solid melts into air, Verso, London, 1983, (Part III), Benjamin, W, Charles Baudelaire: A Lyric Poet in the Era of High Capitalism, New Left Books, London, 1973; Irwin, A, ‘Surrealist Paris’, in Places Vol 6:2, Situationism pp. 56-57, 1990; Thomas, M J, Urban Situationism in Planning Outlook, Autumn, 1975, pp. 27-39, to trace this most radical re-reading.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

living in the ruins

Living in the ruins: “A City that is constantly moving and shuffling its parts” : introductory notes from a project on Truman’s Brewery.

The area for this project was one that has undergone and is still undergoing change at all scales. So for my introduction I thought I would try and summarize something of the ranges of this change. Some are suggested by my own walks around the area with students. Others are more personal, others more general, and connect up to the interests in the choreographic idea of the city but also in work in Bucharest, where the Lipscani district shares some similarities with the area we are looking at today.
The image from Archigram is of the utopian vision of the city a city of cranes and gantries and pods and lifts and total flexibility. We have the cranes and the overlayering patterns of development. But it has crept up on us unawares.
Returning to my home town unexpectedly after years away, wandering the back streets near the river- new shop-fronts and paving, paintwork and window frames – and then in the square a new statue to an old king – except its only a three quarter statue the back is incomplete the streets have been temporarily remade as a film set.
An image of the amphitheatre at Arles, quarried and tunnelled and dwelt in like caves.
The idea of the city as palimpsest the writing and over writing of the territory – the shaping of the present by the past the availability of spaces and the patterns they in turn generate for new forms, traced around and across them.
Not only at the level of substantial buildings and structures. The flux of wind and tides, the movements of the seasons and the light the air that establish moment after another, similar but not repeating.

Beck Norman Nicholson
Not the beck only,
Not just the water–
The stones flow also,
Slow
As continental drift,
As the growth of coral,
As the climb
Of a stalagmite.
Motionless to the eye,
Wide cataracts of rock
Pour off the fellside,
Throw up a spume
Of gravel and scree
To eddy and sink
In the blink of a lifetime.
The water abrades,
Erodes; dissolves
Limestones and chlorides;
Organizes its haulage–
Every drop loaded
With a millionth of a milligramme of fell.
The falling water
Hangs steady as stone;
But the solid rock
Is a whirlpool of commotion,
As the fluid strata
Crest the curl of time,
And top-heavy boulders
Tip over headlong,
An inch in a thousand years.
A Niagara of chock-stones,
Bucketing from the crags,
Spouts down the gullies.
Slate and sandstone
Flake and deliquesce,
And in a grey
Alluvial sweat
Ingleborough and Helvellyn
Waste daily away.
The pith of the pikes
Oozes to the marshes,
Slides along the sykes,
Trickles through ditch and dub,
Enters the endless
Chain of water,
The pull of earth’s centre-
An irresistible momentum,
Never to be reversed,
Never to be halted,
Till the tallest fell
Runs level with the lowland,
And scree lies flat as shingle,
And every valley is exalted,
Every mountain and hill
Flows slow.

And connecting this to the theme of change…
The patterns of everyday life – the measure of ‘footfall’ and the counting of cars and traffic, the comings and goings that turn dead stone into life filled places. The empty corners and the busy market places. The strangers and the visitors, the locals and the watchers, the travellers and theose who have just arrived for the evening.
Perhaps nothing more substantial than a place in the desert where the trade routes cross, a moment that is then frozen into architecture and that in turn becomes the ruins ready for the next age. The fixed view of the drawing and the architectural illustration against the constant movement of the city.
Ideas of rates of change and frames of reference and time span. Do we see the city as at the rate of change of geological shifts or the constant turbulence of a stream? And if the city is a palimpsest, a layered and overwritten sheet, where do we start our explorations? What do we see changing? How does the immediate – the graffiti, the fly-posting, the abandoned and boarded building connect in one direction to those constant flow of life in a place, the patterns of activity and movement, and in the other the ‘development process’, ‘the planning system’ – the hard stuff of the city.
Some of these distant states we have to read from maps and archives. Only the traces – the lines of streets, the division of plots remain on the ground, covered with centuries of life and change.
The story of our area starts with open fields outside the city walls. Tracks across them, cattle, houses on the edge of the city, uses forced outside the city.
Change of scale
– larger changes, the possibilities of new construction technologies and materials changing the scale of buildings, the width of spans and the height of floors; heating and lighting, lifts and escalators……
–clearance and rebuilding after fire, churches, railways bring a new scale of geometry new levels and curvatures in three dimensions and new arrivals and departures – passengers and goods, industry that needs new land and then expanding eating streets and houses, market halls, a new streets cut through, fires, stations closing, markets closing temporary uses and then redevelopment, sites lying fallow and then, when the moment is right, when the balance sheet turns from red to black a new start.
And none of this in a single co-ordinated movement.
Dossers, chancers, squatters, artists, urban pioneers, developers each making a move when they can. Planners overwriting the present into one version of the future in diagrams and paragraphs. Advice and guidance, a ‘development plan’ becomes a ‘strategy of the city fringes’ a ‘development framework’, while the flux of life goes on around it.
Ebb and flow, new houses become unwanted become lodgings for the poor, become storerooms for the market, workshops, sweatshops, stables for goods-yard horses, immigrants establish their own shops and places of worship, the patterns and meanings of their occupation disappear only leaving traces – a mark on the pavement, a worn sign on a wall, which may or may not be noticed recorded remade into memorabilia and documentation – the start of another story, another record. And this area is full of them. Or left as remnants of the past as a deliberate conservationist strategy, alongside the stripped and oiled woodwork.
Fragments of all this and the way new patterns of life overlap with the old, buildings change and decay and are redeveloped or, for the moment left – a ‘building at risk’ or a development opportunity are everywhere
In the three sites used in one project – Trumans’ Brewery, Shoreditch Station and Brick Lane – there were histories and stories and episodes that give the changing pattern of buildings and spaces (the stuff of urban design) life and meaning.
Trumans Brewery which closed in 1988 left behind a very clear trace of its growth through the 18th Century Directors House, the 19th Century stables and boiler house, and a range of other late 19th and early 20th century buildings which were then expanded and rebuilt again in the 1970’s with new glass fronted office suites and massive concrete framed brewing spaces, all connected with pipes and old streets gates off and absorbed into the site. In some ways very little has changed – the layers of buildings are still visible and only in the past few months – when new floors have been added to one of the 1970’s industrial buildings – has there been anything more substantial that shop fronts and fire escapes. The artists’ studios and small dot-com companies that were there in the 1980’s when lots of the space was empty have gradually transformed into a mix of bars and clubs and short term lets for exhibitions and film shoots and the ‘Old Truman’s Brewery’ has become a destination on the visitor map……… loading bays are cafés and clothes stores, a weekday carpark is a weekend market, what is there one week is not there the next …..
Shoreditch Station on the ‘London Overground’ is the newest arrival in the area and places the area in a new geography of London, the dark tunnels and carparks of the undercroft of the destroyed Bishopsgate Goodsyard (fire in the 1960’s) cleared away for the most part leaving only fragments of wall and the earliest part (the ‘Braithwaite Viaduct’) which still sprout the buddleia jungles of dereliction. A round it at present are sites for development, scarred and barren, while for a few years BoxPark takes advantage of the new opportunity – its tenants and its style aiming at the new urban market as they arrive in their search for style. Around it the last 1960’s industrial units are still in use while others have become 20 storey apartments and roof extensions remake the skyline, with palms and solar panels, warehouses become more gallery space……and Shoreditch station is sited at the heart. But who is coming and going?
And looking at the final site, the northern part Brick Lane itself – nothing much has changed at all – there are shops and cafes, and some of them spill out onto the pavement and there is still the market. But the changes are in the windows and in the people there, who they are and where they have come from, their dress and their lifestyles as junk becomes curiosity. Though the basic structures are little changed the language of the signs and shop windows, the offer is to the present.
All this suggests the idea that we are always living in the ruins, and that in the right location, at the right time, there is a gap in the serious structure of cities that becomes an opportunity for the soft end of urbanism, the temporary and the insubstantial that can, at relatively little cost transform an area.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

for the first time once

For the first time – once : Bucharest

Originally presented at the Planning Research Conference, Anglia Ruskin University, Chelmsford, April 2010.

Since this paper is intended to be read aloud it does not follow all the conventions of an ‘academic’ paper and includes poems and fragments, without explanation. But there are footnotes for the hunter-gatherers of the groves of Academe. The paper was allocated to the ‘International Development’ section but it is really an exploration of otherness, of strangeness, of unfamiliarity – all the qualities that ‘experts’ do not often admit. But to be somewhere for the first time is a rare and magical moment, something that only happens once.

To hear the distant diesels growl and the call of the midnight freight.
A city waking up.
Each place in a different key.
The first tramcar and the last taxi in the night.
Do the clouds catch the first sun’s rays
Or the buildings hide the sky?

Building up a picture of a city in my mind
Novels maps and guidebooks paint a scene
Can’t tell the future from the past

Behind every study of ‘international development’ is that first moment where there is no expertise, only experience. The Stranger , The Strangers Path , are our guides, we are but Readers, Travellers, Visitors a long way from becoming Visitors and Storytellers , lost like Roland Barthes in an Empire of Signs and whatever claim we may eventually make at this moment we are still in the grip of The Tourist Gaze . We still have to learn to read the city Close up . We do not know what is true and what is false in Nights in this City .

The slides start here, running without interuption or explanation.

It always was going to be strange, to be somewhere for the first time (ocazie prima = first occasion?) once (o data = datum?) – but even Romanian becomes easier to read once you have a context and a pattern.

I set out with a deliberately under researched background – a few photos, a couple of exhibitions of modern Romanian art, a book of poems and a quick reading of The Balkan Trilogy – but I suspect even its pre-war, pre-internet heroine Harriet Pringle knew more about the place than I did; at least she could talk to Guy as their train crawled across the Balkans from Venice.

I landed at Otopeni Airport in the dark cold of a Sunday night and, advised by a fellow traveller with a ten hour train journey ahead of him to Iasi not to trust the taxi drivers , sought the 7 lei bus trip into the city from the basement of the domestic arrivals terminal . I had arrived in Romania :‘Beware – the mafia will rob you, the gypsies stab you and the wild dogs eat your body’

I was there to explore the possibilities of developing a research programme around the connections between contemporary art and urbanism. I had seen challenging work from Romania at the Venice Biennale and started to read contemporary Romanian literature in translation and in my mind was the model of Robert Hewison’s Future Tense – A new art for the Nineties which would serve as well as a text on urbanism as artistic experiments of the period, with its interweaving of The Last of England and Tobacco Dock shopping area, Richmond Riverside and White Chappell- Scarlet Tracings .

As my bus crawled along the blue Christmas lit tree lined outer arterial where new apartment blocks covered in agents’ boards were spaced between retail ‘outlets’ , through the dark parklands of Baneasa and towards the Arc de Triumf (the first recognisable landmark – except that its in the centre of a huge gyratory) and then along boulevards of jugendstyl villas, and past the dark six storey blocks of department stores and flats I could have been in Lille or Lyon. Except the next stop indicator now read ‘Piata 21 Dec 1989 / Metro Universitatii’ – and if you know anything about recent Romania ‘21 Dec 1989’ is a date you don’t forget. And just to prove this is the new post Ceausescu Romania a huge electric Christmas tree is gradually changing colour at its centre.

Daylight, a grey even cold grey drizzle daylight, confirmed the eclectic fragmented collage that is post modern post communist Bucureşti. Outside my restored two star suite in a one star hotel (‘Roman Style’ with two balconies) a 1960’s concrete frame office butted into a converted French grande maison and on the corner an unfinished swoop of exaggerated curved purple steel cut through the flapping sheeting of an unfinished speculation above the row of one room, one light bulb, one loaf of bread corner shops – the history of the city before I’d even started out to give my lecture.

But as I explored the bookshops later in the afternoon it was clear that there is, like everywhere but more poignant here because of what has been lost and in what circumstances, a great sense of loss. Not only of the well known destruction of the area south of the canalised and diverted and cleaned up Dambovita River for the ‘Casa Popolarului’ and the overstretched Boulevard Unirii (though now there are 50 times more cars on the streets it looks about right in a Las Vegas way), but for a time perhaps in the mid 1800’s when Bucuresti became the capital of the new kingdom. ‘The oldest and finest photo panoramas of Bucureşti’ and a graphic reconstruction of the city in 1850 are on sale alongside the usual sunlit souvenir books ; detailed and researched surveys of ‘courtyards, gardens, quarters and landscapes’ is in the specialist bookshops alongside ‘streets, passages and houses of old Bucureşti’ ; the Urban Observatory (in a passage behind a sex shop) run by the Romanian Architects Union campaigns for respect for the past and holds an exhibition of ‘The lost gardens of Bucureşti’ and reports a mock funeral for urban planning controls while the introduction to Bucharest – Architecture and modernity … concludes with a plea for control and care in managing the cityscape.

Maybe the developers whose projects fill the free sheets aimed at international investors and speculators will not have such an easy time in the future .

In three, snowy days – not that -8 degrees and about 15cms. of snow did much to stop the traffic despite ungritted roads (raising questions of corruption on the local TV) – it was only possible to see a fraction of the city, but still it confirmed that first balcony impression of (and reinforced my love for) this crazy collage of a city. For that is what it is : Rowe and Koetter’s theory made real twenty five years after it was written, combined with a discarded set for Blade Runner

Reading back my notes and sketches impressions return. Huge pixellated animated billboards with the silhouette of a church in front; the cast of Trajan’s column that here is not just archaeology but a foundation myth made fact; searching for Romanian cat food in a tiny crumbling corner shop near Lipscani Str. where the assistant is just back from LA; buying a huge bunch of mistletoe for 1 leu from an old lady sat beneath a long straight bloc that crashes through the network of streets behind my hotel; the chic bar underneath the UAR offices, post modernism growing from the bullet scarred ruins, where I drink 12 year old tuica under scenes of the 1989 Revolution turned to wall paper; the timber cottages of the Transylvanian Motel beside the E46 back to the airport. All of my memories are of these unlikely collages.

Even the infamous Casa Poporului is architecturally not much different from Bofill’s excesses . I was told that in the early 1990’s when it was being enviously eyed by a speculator for a giant resort hotel the Romanian response was that it may be excessive, unfinished, and with all kinds of bitter memories but now it is our prize from the Revolution (casa poporuliu means house of the people) and is not for private sale, though I did buy a sweet little plaster model. The problem is the context of huge open spaces around it – a problem that Camillo Sitte would have understood and that Rob Kreir (though I cannot see him as Ceaucescu’s favourite architect) would never have allowed. There have been competitions and student projects but the real problem is a series of top secret security bunkers which were never revealed so maybe my colleague at Ion Mincu’s student schemes for landscaped parks are more realizable .

Can such a place as Bucureşti, have such a fragile spirit as the genius loci when its been : transformed out of a trading post in the 19th century; made into the ‘Paris of the East’ in the 1920’s; the model of rationalist state communism in the 1950’s ; a megalomaniac’s dream in the 1970’s; and now in the grip of free market expressionism (with some token conservation) ; and if I read between the lines of my budget airline magazine and my Thomas Cook City Spot Guide :‘lets be honest, you probably aren‘t coming for the sights. Instead most people come for the energy ….the skyscrapers that appear from nowhere and the trendy night spots that attract the finest DJ‘s in the world’ – the next international party city ?

Maybe that spirit just fled when the first attempts to tidy up and canalise the Dambovita began in the 19th century and the boyars adopted western dress and started to look to Paris and Vienna?

It will not be conjured up through the downloaded images of glowing elsewheres that are so easily cut and pasted into image boards for student projects , and nor will it be found in the property speculators fantasies. Lucian Boia has charted the struggles that Romania and Romanians have with their national identity and culture and it is through understanding the topographies of these complexities of the national psyche that a new and more robust genius loci might be found . In three days and only a brief survey of some of the literature to claim a full grasp of planning and urban design issues in Bucureşti would be presumptuous. The combination between the unfettered dynamism of commercial and speculative development, the relatively new planning system and the fragility of the historic townscape suggests a metaphor somewhere between riding a rodeo steer and a bull in a china shop.

Slide show ends here

Some readers of the modern European city find Fragments disorientated and disorientating, lost in cultural space, or Non Places where super modernity has blurred identity and meaning. But there is another reading – A Shout in the Street in a babel of voices that gives life and meaning, a landscape of Spaces of Uncertainty that generates an Everyday Urbanism that is essentially an existential one, not an expert one. That may be difficult for ‘experts’ and ‘professionals’ to come to terms with.

I am a stranger here myself.
I can read the maps and check the timetables,
make a good guess at tomorrow’s weather.

I found that the National Museum sells reproductions of old maps
And has reconstructed the Victoria Socialismului demolitions in old photographs, scattered across the floor,
I found the antiquarian book specialist just off Strada Academie

What is the word for this?
I can order the sausage and a brandy late at night
Buy wine and caviar to carry home
And a plaster model of the palatul

I have to find the stop for Otopeni airport

Acknowledgements.
LSBU Faculty of Arts and Human Sciences assisted my travel to Romania and the presentation of this paper at the Planning Research Conference, Anglia Ruskin University, Chelmsford, April 2010.
Dr Angelica Stan, Nicolae Mircea in Bucuresti offered me insight and inspiration for this paper.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment